All Chef Must Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.

When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.